Discover the Best Crete Senesi Travel Guide For Your Vacation

Our Comprehensive Crete Senesi Travel Guide

Italy, with its iconic cities and rolling vineyards, holds many treasures. But beyond the well-trodden paths of Florence, Venice and Rome lies a landscape of surreal beauty and profound history that we have fallen in love with: the Crete Senesi. This often-overlooked corner of Tuscany offers a unique blend of "lunar" landscapes, ancient villages, authentic culinary delights, and world-class wines, making it a dream destination for discerning travelers.

We wrote this blog post to give you the best Crete Senesi travel guide through the captivating Crete Senesi, providing insights for a truly enriching experience or a great place to start building your dream Italian vacation. We'll delve into its history, highlight its most charming villages, explore its renowned food and wine, and explain how to get there from Italy's major hubs.

The Allure of the Crete Senesi: More Than Just Scenery

The "Crete Senesi" literally translates to "Sienese Clays," a name perfectly describing the region's distinctive grey-blue clay hills. Formed by ancient Pliocene seas, these undulating landscapes look similar to a lunar surface, particularly in the drier summer months when they take on a warm, ochre hue. In spring, they burst with vibrant green wheat fields dotted with red poppies, offering a breathtaking contrast.

But the Crete Senesi is more than just a pretty picture. It's a place where history whispers from every medieval village, every fortified farm, and every ancient church. This area has been inhabited for millennia, and its strategic position south of Siena meant it played a significant role in the historical struggles between Siena and Florence.

The Deep Geological Roots of the Crete Senesi

The most striking feature of the Crete Senesi – its undulating, grey-blue clay hills – is a direct result of its ancient past. Between 2.5 and 4.5 million years ago, during the Pliocene Epoch, this entire area was submerged beneath a vast sea. Over millennia, sediments of clay and sand accumulated on the seabed. As the sea receded and the land uplifted, these deposits were exposed to the elements.

The soft, argillaceous (clay-rich) soil, locally known as "mattaione" (a mix of clay, rock salt, and gypsum), has been continuously sculpted by water erosion. This relentless process has created the characteristic formations known as "biancane" (small, rounded, white-ish clay hillocks) and "calanchi" (deeply eroded gullies or ravines). These geological features give the landscape its surreal, barren appearance, often likened to a desert or a lunar surface, particularly in the summer. In fact, a central part of the Crete Senesi was historically known as the "Accona Desert" due to its arid and challenging terrain.

A Land Shaped by Humanity: From Etruscans to Medieval Power Struggles

Despite its seemingly harsh environment, the Crete Senesi has been inhabited for millennia, with a history stretching back to the Etruscan and Roman periods. Archaeological evidence, including Etruscan necropolises and Roman remains, shows there were early settlements in the region.

However, the region truly came into its own during the Middle Ages. Its strategic position just south of Siena made it a vital borderland and a constant battleground. The area was fiercely contested between the powerful city-states of Siena and Florence, leading to the construction of numerous fortified villages, castles, and defensive walls that still stand today.

Crucially, the Crete Senesi was also traversed by the Via Francigena, a major pilgrimage route that connected Canterbury (England) to Rome. This ancient "bundle of roads" was not only a path for pilgrims seeking spiritual solace but also a crucial artery for trade, military movements, and the exchange of ideas and cultures across Europe. The passage of countless travelers and merchants undoubtedly influenced the development and prosperity of the villages along its course.

The agricultural history of the Crete Senesi is also fascinating. While the clay soil made traditional viticulture and olive growing difficult in many areas, it was well-suited for wheat, sunflowers, and fodder crops. The Benedictine monks of the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, for instance, famously planted cypress trees to help stabilize the unstable clay hills and prevent landslides, showcasing early ingenuity in managing the challenging terrain. These cypress trees dot the landscape throughout the region and offer opportunities for stunning photographs.

Best Villages to Explore in the Crete Senesi

The Crete Senesi is dotted with charming, picture perfect villages, each offering a unique glimpse into Tuscan life. Here are some of the best to include in your itinerary:

• Asciano: Often considered the gateway to the Crete Senesi, Asciano is a characteristic medieval center enclosed within ancient defensive walls. This charming town has deep roots, with evidence of Etruscan, Roman, and Lombard settlements. Etruscan necropolis and Roman mosaic pavement fragments have been found nearby. In the early medieval period, Asciano was a point of contention between the Bishops of Siena and Arezzo before falling under direct Sienese control. Its strategic location on the Via Lauretana (an ancient Etruscan-Roman road) further boosted its importance. Don't miss the Basilica of Sant'Agata and the Palazzo Corboli Museum, housed in a medieval building, offering a fantastic collection of sacred art and archaeological finds, showcasing Asciano's artistic and historical significance. From Asciano, the panoramic road SP 438 connecting it to Siena is particularly beautiful. Look for the lovely cheese marble sculpture and the bicycle which was the cities knife sharpener at one time.

• Buonconvento: Listed among "The Most Beautiful Villages in Italy," Buonconvento is a medieval gem situated along the ancient Via Francigena pilgrimage route. Meaning "happy community" in Latin, Buonconvento's name suggests its role as a welcoming stop. It emerged in the late 12th century as a vital trading post and resting place. Its well-preserved defensive walls, completed in 1383, and historical buildings, like the Palazzo Podestarile with its clock tower, transport you back in time. The village was politically significant during the Middle Ages, even serving as the seat of a "podestà" (a chief magistrate) for a territory encompassing 32 locations. Notably, Holy Roman Emperor Arrigo VII is said to have died here in 1313. The village's museums, like the Mezzadria Senese Museum, highlight its rural past.

• Rapolano Terme: For those seeking relaxation, Rapolano Terme is renowned for its therapeutic thermal waters. Indulge in a rejuvenating spa treatment after a day of exploring. The nearby fortified hamlet of Serre di Rapolano is also worth a visit, especially during its traditional medieval spring festival, "Serremaggio," in May.

• San Giovanni d'Asso: This village is a must for food lovers, particularly those with a fondness for truffles. This village grew up around an imposing Gothic castle, with origins dating back to the 12th century. The castle itself underwent several phases of construction and ownership by noble families, including the Salimbeni. It even served as a granary for the Ospedale Santa Maria della Scala, one of Siena's oldest hospitals. It's famous for its precious white truffle and even boasts a Truffle Museum, housed in the restored castle, celebrating this deep connection to the local produce. If you visit in November, you might catch the annual white truffle festival!

• Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore: While not a village, this stunning 12th-century Benedictine monastery is a highlight of the Crete Senesi. Founded in the early 14th century, it played a crucial role in the cultural and economic life of the area. Adorned with remarkable frescoes by Luca Signorelli and Sodoma, it offers a glimpse into both artistic mastery and monastic life. The monks even produce their own wine, liqueurs, and olive oil, available in the gift shop.

A Feast for the Senses: Wines and Foods of the Crete Senesi

No visit to Tuscany is complete without indulging in its culinary delights, and the Crete Senesi offers a truly authentic taste of the region.

Exquisite Wines

While the Crete Senesi itself has its own DOC Grance Senesi wines, the region lies adjacent to some of Tuscany's most prestigious wine-producing areas, making it an excellent base for wine enthusiasts.

• Brunello di Montalcino: Just southwest of the Crete Senesi lies Montalcino, home to one of Italy's most revered red wines. Made exclusively from Sangiovese grapes, Brunello is known for its structure, longevity, and complex aromas of cherry, plum, and earthy notes. Many wineries in the Crete Senesi offer tours and tastings of this iconic wine, often paired with local delicacies.

• Rosso di Montalcino: Often considered the younger sibling to Brunello, Rosso di Montalcino is also made from Sangiovese but has a shorter aging period, resulting in a fresher, more approachable red wine.

• Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: To the east, the historic town of Montepulciano produces another celebrated Sangiovese-based red, Vino Nobile. It's a full-bodied, elegant wine with dark fruit and floral notes.

• Pecorino Wine Pairings: Local pecorino cheeses are often paired with these robust red wines. You'll also find smaller producers creating delightful IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) wines, offering unique expressions of the local terroir.

Culinary Treasures

The cuisine of the Crete Senesi is rooted in peasant traditions, emphasizing fresh, local ingredients and hearty flavors.

• Pici: This thick, hand-rolled pasta is the quintessential pasta of the Siena area. Made simply from flour and water (sometimes with a touch of olive oil), it has a wonderfully chewy texture. It's typically served with rich sauces like ragù di Chianina (beef), ragù di Nana (duck), or ragù di Selvaggina (game), or with a simple yet flavorful aglione sauce, made from a special, large, mild, slightly sweet, garlic from the Valdichiana.

• Cinta Senese Pork: A true gastronomic emblem, Cinta Senese is an ancient, free-range pig breed identifiable by its characteristic white band ("cinta") around its dark body. The meat is renowned for its flavor and quality, used to produce exquisite cured meats such as Prosciutto, Finocchiona (fennel-flavored salami), Salsicce Stagionate(cured sausages), and various cuts like Lombata and Capocollo.

• Pecorino di Pienza: The Pecorino cheese from the nearby town of Pienza (within the broader Val d'Orcia, which borders the Crete Senesi) is a must-try. Made from sheep's milk, it ranges from young and fresh to aged and firm, with distinct flavors influenced by the herbs the sheep graze on. It's often aged in oak barrels, or wrapped in walnut leaves or ash, lending unique characteristics. Enjoy it with local honey or fruit preserves.

• Truffles: As highlighted with San Giovanni d'Asso, the Crete Senesi is a prime area for truffles, particularly the prized white truffle in autumn and winter, and black truffles in summer. You'll find truffle-infused dishes on many menus, from pasta to eggs, offering an aromatic burst of flavor. If you haven't tried eggs with truffles it is a must!

• Local Olive Oil: The region produces high-quality extra virgin olive oil, a staple of Tuscan cuisine, used generously to finish dishes and dress salads.

• Traditional Desserts: Don't leave without trying Siena's famous traditional sweets like Panforte (a dense, spiced fruit and nut cake) and Ricciarelli (soft almond biscuits dusted with icing sugar), often paired with a sweet Vin Santo dessert wine. For amazing Ricciarelli stop at the famous pastecceria in Asciano, Il Forno delle Crete.

Navigating to the Heart of Tuscany: Getting to Crete Senesi

The Crete Senesi region is best explored by car, allowing you the flexibility to wander off the main roads and discover hidden viewpoints and charming agriturismi. However, it is also possible to combine train travel with local transport or taxis.

From Florence:

• By Car (Recommended): The drive from Florence to the heart of Crete Senesi (e.g., Asciano) takes approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes to 1 hour and 40 minutes, covering around 90-100 km. The most direct routes involve taking the A1/E35 southbound and then connecting to local roads towards Siena and the Crete Senesi.

  • Route Tip: Consider taking the Raccordo Autostradale Firenze - Siena, then the E78/SS223 towards Siena Est/Arezzo, and finally local roads like SP438.

• By Train: While less direct, you can take a train from Florence Santa Maria Novella (Firenze S.M.N.) to Siena, and then a connecting regional train to towns like Asciano-Monte Oliveto Maggiore. This journey typically takes around 3 to 3.5 hours with transfers.

From Rome:

• By Car (Recommended): Driving from Rome to the Crete Senesi takes approximately 2 hours and 20 minutes to 2 hours and 40 minutes, covering about 210-230 km. You'll primarily use the A1/E35 northbound, exiting for local roads that lead into the Crete Senesi.

  • Route Tip: Take the A1/E35 towards Florence, then look for exits towards Siena or local roads leading into the Crete Senesi, such as the Raccordo Autostradale 6 Bettolle-Perugia, connecting to SS715 towards Siena.

• By Train: You can take a high-speed train from Roma Termini to Chiusi-Chianciano Terme, and then a regional train to Asciano-Monte Oliveto Maggiore. This route usually takes around 4 to 5 hours, including transfers. Direct trains from Rome to Asciano are less frequent and may take longer.

Embrace the Lunar Landscape

The Crete Senesi offers a profound escape from the bustling city life. Its unique landscapes, rich history, and delicious local produce – especially the famed white truffle – promise an unforgettable journey. Whether you're a history buff, a food enthusiast, or simply seeking serene beauty, this remarkable corner of Tuscany awaits. Start planning your adventure today and get ready to fall in love with Crete Sinesi like we have!

Travel smarter with this travel bag from Federico Serrani (when you get home it makes an excellent work bag!)

or this crossbody leather bag

The perfect Chef's knife to cut your Crete Sinesi salami

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